Fabric and Feel: Silk, Satin, Lace, and Mesh
The fabric shapes everything about how a chemise wears. Silk is naturally temperature-regulating and has a subtle, low-key sheen; it reads dressier than it feels and is a reasonable choice when you want something that doubles as actual sleepwear without looking like it. Satin, typically polyester or polyamide in most lingerie, is smoother and more opaque than silk but traps heat more easily. It holds its shape well through repeated washing, which is part of why it's the most common chemise fabric. Lace varies more than either: a stretch lace chemise moves easily and accommodates a broader range of fits, while rigid or guipure lace has more structure and a dressier look but is less comfortable for extended wear. Sheer mesh is typically used for panels or as an overlay rather than all-over construction, adding visual contrast without adding significant coverage.
Underwire, Shelf Bras, and Built-In Support
Several chemise styles include a built-in shelf bra, underwire cups, or molded padding. A chemise with underwire fits more like a bra than a standard garment: size it the same way you would a regular bra, fitting the cup first and adjusting the band. If you're between cup sizes, going up one is usually the better call. Styles with a soft shelf bra are more size-forgiving but provide light support rather than structured lift. Molded or padded cups add shape without underwire and sit somewhere in between. If you tend to skip separate bras in your lingerie drawer because of comfort or convenience, an underwire chemise can cover both functions. Look for styles that describe the specific construction rather than general language like "built-in support," which can mean anything from a thin shelf band to a full underwire set.
Chemises, Slips, and Babydolls
The chemise shares DNA with the babydoll and the slip, and the categories overlap enough that the same garment gets labeled differently across retailers. Babydolls typically fall above mid-thigh and are cut loose through the torso; slips run longer and more fitted. A chemise can look like either depending on cut and length. Within a broader lingerie wardrobe, the chemise is one of the more adaptable pieces: fitted enough to wear as a smooth underlayer beneath certain dresses, deliberate enough to stand on its own as a look, and comfortable enough for everyday sleep.